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THE FAN
DOCTOR |
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Most industrial fans are very reliable, designed by
knowledgeable manufacturers for long life under a multitude
of conditions. However, breakdowns do happen. They can be
caused by incorrect installation, lack of maintenance or
even improper fan selection. It can also be that years of
strenuous service have simply worn out the fan.
This page
is presented as a guide, and not a technical service manual,
more complex causes and remedies are not included. Remember
also that some ailments may have more than one cause.
If you don't find the answer to your question here, please
complete the help request below. Your request will be
answered within 24 hours by a qualified Chicago Blower
service technician. |
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Vibration | Noise |
Overheated Bearings |
Poor Air
Performance | Ask The Fan
Doctor | |
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Vibration |
| Cause |
Remedy |
| The most common cause
of vibration problems is out of balance fan wheel or
rotor. |
Check the wheel for any dirt or
foreign material, especially hard-to-see places like
the backside of the wheel and the underside of the
blades. |
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| Airfoil blades are usually hollow. When
exposed to rain or excessive moisture, they can get
water inside of them. Drilling one 3/16" drain hole
in the upper surface of each blade near the trailing
edge should cure the problem. Rebalancing is not
usually necessary. |
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| Inspect the wheel for corrosion or erosion.
Usually wheel erosion will occur at the leading edge
of the blade. On a paddle wheel type fan the outer
blade tip may also be worn. An airfoil wheel exposed
to sand or abrasive dust can actually develop pin
holes in the leading edge of the blades. Do all
possible to eliminate these damaging conditions and
then rebalance the wheel. If the wheel is seriously
damaged, it will have to be replaced. |
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| Improper or loose
mounting. |
Foundation bolts and bearing
mounting bolts can loosen themselves. Make sure they
are tight. |
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| Loose set screws that
hold the wheel to the shaft. |
Again, tighten the screws, but
first be certain the wheel hasn't shifted on the
shaft or is rubbing on the inlet cone or drive side
of the housing. |
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| Bent fan shaft. |
First, check the shaft with a dial
indicator. If bent, it should be replaced as soon as
possible to avoid replacing the entire fan. |
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| Misaligned V-belt
drive, another very common problem on belt driven
fans. |
Realign assembly so fan and motor
shaft are parallel and faces of sheaves (pulleys)
are flush to a straight edge. We've found that a
taut string will work fine. |
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| Fan wheel turbulence
due to the rotor running backwards. |
Since blade angles and shapes vary
greatly, it is easy to misread rotor direction.
Check for correct wheel rotation, clockwise or
counter clockwise, as seen from the drive side. We
illustrate the correct rotation for various wheel
types in CBC Course 100, page 4. |
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| Air pulsation. |
Fan may be operating in the stall
area of its performance curve. That means it is
oversized for your particular system - refer to CBC
Course 100, paragraph 3.22 - or the system
resistance is higher than intended. You can lower
the system resistance by cleaning the filters or
opening the dampers. |
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Can't find the answer
to your problem?
Ask The Fan Doctor. |
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Noise |
| Cause |
Remedy |
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Foreign material in the
fan housing. |
This
could be anything from a loosened bolt to somebody's
lunch bag. Inspect the wheel and inside of fan
housing and clean thoroughly. |
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Squealing V-belts. |
Belts
are either loose or misaligned. If belts show wear,
you are better off to replace them now and avoid a
future breakdown. |
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Worn ball or roller
bearings. (Howling, screeching, or clicking). |
Change the bearings immediately
before they cause additional damage. Failing
bearings tend to wear the shaft, so you want to be
absolutely certain the shaft is full size before
installing these new bearings. "Mike" the shaft both
under the bearing and next to it and compare the two
readings. If they do not match, replace the shaft.
New bearings installed on a worn shaft will not last
long. |
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Bearing seal
misaligned. (High pitch squeal). |
Realign the face of the bearing so that it is
perpendicular to the shaft. |
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If the fan housing has
a metal shaft seal it could be misaligned and
rubbing on the shaft. |
Loosen
seal plate bolts, re-center the seal on the fan
shaft and tighten the bolts. If the seal is
fiberglass, cork or rubber, be sure the metal
backing plate does not touch the shaft. |
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Can't find the answer
to your problem?
Ask The Fan Doctor. |
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Overheated Bearings |
| Ball or roller bearings
tend to heat up when they have been over greased and
will cool down to their normal running level when
the excess grease oozes out. The normal operating
temperature of a bearing may be well above 140°F which is hot to touch. Temperatures above
this have to be read with instruments and anything
above 180°F should be questioned. If you
place a drop of water on the bearing and it sizzles,
the bearing is in distress and should be changed
before it seizes and ruins the shaft. |
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| Cause |
Remedy |
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Bearing may be worn and
failing. |
Replace the bearings. Remember to also check the
shaft. (refer back to Noise
section) |
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Improper grease. |
Use a
lithium base, high speed, channeling type grease. Do
not use high temperature or general purpose grease. |
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Over greasing. |
If you
allow the bearing to run for a few hours, it will
normally purge itself of the extra grease. You can
simply remove excess grease from split roller
bearings by lifting the top half of the block for
access. |
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Bearing exposed to
"heat soak" from an oven or dryer after shutdown. |
"Heat
soak" occurs when a fan is idle and its shaft
cooling wheel can no longer cool the inboard
bearing. Heat from inside the fan can actually cook
the grease. A 15 minute fan run after the oven heat
is turned off will cool the fan shaft and protect
the bearing. |
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Loose V-belts may cause
belt slippage and friction heating resulting in hot
bearings, shafts or sheaves. |
Tighten belt to proper tension. A good rule of thumb
- you should be able to depress the belt the same
distance as the thickness of the belt. |
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Excessive V-belt
tension. |
Belts
may be too tight. Adjust to the correct tension. |
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Can't find the answer
to your problem?
Ask The Fan Doctor. |
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Poor Air Performance |
| Cause |
Remedy |
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Fan rotation incorrect. |
Refer
to Vibration section. An
easy way to change rotation on most 3-phase motors
is to reverse any two motor leads. |
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Abrupt turn in the duct
close to the fan discharge or air pre-spin caused by
ductwork elbows at the inlet. |
Install turning vanes or elbow splitters in the
duct. If air performance is still inadequate, the
discharge position may have to be changed. |
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If fan has an Inlet
Volume Control (IVC), is it improperly installed? |
Be
sure the IVC is installed with pre-spin of the air
in direction of wheel rotation when the IVC is
partially closed. |
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Off-center wheel. |
This
can occur on double width, double inlet fans. Center
the fan between the inlet cones to avoid overloading
one side of the wheel while starving the other. |
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Fan horsepower
unexpectedly low. |
Correct one or more of the following conditions:
Air pre-spin into the fan inlet
Fan drive sheaves set for too low a fan speed
Resistance to airflow, such as caused by a closed
damper, much higher than calculated |
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Fan horsepower
unexpectedly high. |
Be
sure fan speed is not too high. Fan may be operating
without ductwork at low resistance so that too much
air is flowing.
The fan may be handling ambient air when it was
originally intended for hot, less dense air.
Fan may be running backwards. |
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Can't find the answer
to your problem?
Ask The Fan Doctor. |
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Ask The Fan
Doctor |
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